Eyelid Surgery- From the eye of the beholder…

Here's looking at you kid (with my natural haircolor)!

Here's looking at you kid (with my natural haircolor)!

 

 

 

The first thing that I notice about a person is their eyes.  Many people do not know that there are oculoplastic surgeons such as myself who are trained specifically to perform cosmetic surgeries on the delicate eyelid structures.  Unlike many surgeons, when I operate on the eyelids I do not use a scalpel, but a precision Ellman Surgitron Radiosurgical device that emits radiowaves to make my incisions and to minimize recovery time and complications.  As a surgeon, I like to operate, but surgery is not the only means to recapture the look of youth.  In fact, the majority of my patients want to improve their appearance without the downtime associated with surgery.  For these patients, I have designed a regimen of nonsurgical therapies using injectable treatments, lasers and light sources, and Thermage skin tightening to improve the quality, texture, and resilience of their skin.  When used in proper combinations these treatments not only postpone the need for surgery, but actually improve the surgical result when the time comes for a procedure in the future.  But, for those who do need a little help from a surgical procedure, these are the things that I look at from a surgeon’s perspective:

 

 

PREOPERATIVE MEASUREMENTS AND OBSERVATIONS

 

Vertical Palpebral Aperture [distance between the upper & lower eyelids]

Twiggy versus mere mortals:

This is what makes the difference between having wide-open, “doe-eyed” appearance of supermodels (Twiggy), versus us mere mortals.  I once had an oculoplastic surgeon tell me that he knew that I was Czech by my “narrow vertical aperture”- I wonder how many times THAT pickup line worked?  Measuring the distance between the upper and lower lid margins will reveal the presence of a true drooping eyelid [ptosis].  The average vertical palpebral aperture is 10 mm, with the upper lid margin 1 to 2 mm below the superior limbus [“limbus” - point where the white part of the eye (sclera) and the colored part of the eye (iris) meets] and the lower lid margin at the level of the inferior limbus. 

 

Horizontal Palpebral Aperture [distance between the temporal eyelid and the nose]

Kate Moss

Ever do the trick to determine whether your eyes are too far apart or not?  You know, the one in all of the beauty magazines that say to measure one eye between your thumb and forefinger, then shift it to on top of your nose- if this is equidistant to the other eye then you are perfect- no?  Guess you didn’t grow up in the 80’s then (count your blessings). The average horizontal palpebral aperture is 30 to 34 mm. Kate Moss has a broad horizontal palpebral apeture, but a narrow vertical palpebral aperture, and the last that  I checked in, she was doing just fine.

 

Inferior Scleral Show [too much white showing when looking straight ahead]

Marty Feldman

The idealized lower lid rests at the level of the inferior limbus.  Inferior scleral show is the distance from the inferior limbus to the lower lid margin.  It may occur normally as an anatomic variant (large eyeballs from severe nearsightedness, shallow orbits) or as the result of underlying medical problems (overactive thyroid- Marty Feldman).  These patients require specialized reconstructive techniques for the best outcome.  [Don’t worry, we are pretty clever as surgeons…]. 

 

Superior Sulcus (New York versus “so L.A.”)

Nancy Pelosi

Below the eyebrow, the superior sulcus is tucked directly underneath the brow-bone. In young patients, the superior sulcus is a flat or concave surface.  Recontouring the superior sulcus is often the primary objective of eyelid surgery (blepharoplasty).  It’s funny, but in this era of economic crisis, I have had a lot of people hold up their hands to me and say “whatever you do, don’t make me look like Nancy Pelosi!...what did she have done anyway?”   (The answer is that too much fat was removed from the upper eyebrow region. I don’t do that look- it’s old school). The superior sulcus in men should be treated differently than women!  The male superior sulcus which is full, has a flat contour and a low flat lid fold with minimal central arching (Brad Pitt- just right, don’t touch it)! The female superior sulcus exhibits a high, arched lid crease and a delicate lid fold (Sophia Loren- gorgeous).  Oversculpting of the male superior sulcus can give a feminized appearance (Burt Reynolds- too much)!  Patients with droopy eyelids because of a slipped eyelid muscle [levator aponeurotic disinsertion] may have deep, flat superior sulci (Forrest Whitaker- on the right eyelid but still an awesome actor). They might find their droopy eyelid objectionable, but like their superior sulcus contours. These cases require special techniques. Fixing the droopy eyelid will change their superior sulcus contour, usually to their dissatisfaction.       

 

Lateral Canthal Angle [where the eyelid attaches to the temple]

Johhny Depp

I always liked guys with “tilt-tipped eyes.”  For some reason, a slightly upward sweep of the lower eyelid on a man seemed attractive to me.  This is determined by the lateral canthal angle (the point where the tendon holding the lower eyelid inserts onto the temporal bone) The lateral canthus is normally 2 mm higher than the medial canthus [where the eyelid meets the nose- “hello nose”].  In general, the lateral canthal angle is more angular than the medial canthal angle which is round.  Any rounding or inferior displacement of the lateral canthus will be cosmetically significant.  Bilaterally rounded lateral canthi alerts the surgeon (me) that previous cosmetic surgery may have been performed. 

 

Hypertrophic Orbicularis Muscle (bunched up lower lid when smiling)

Jackie Chan

The pretarsal orbicularis muscle holds the lower eyelid in place.  In some people, this bunches up into a little sausage when they smile.  This doesn’t bother me, but it seems to bother half of Hollywood and Broadway.  It’s caused by a strong pretarsal orbicularis muscle (I don’t know if Jackie Chan works this one out- but he does kick some serious butt and is constantly smiling- he truly enjoys his work, as do I).  Personally, I think it gives a cute look of character, but if it really bothers somebody, it can be softened with a little Botox injection to the lower eyelid (but leave it alone, please)!

 

 

Inferior Orbital Rim (Lower eyelid region)

Walter Matthau looks great now!

Correcting “bags” beneath the lower eyelids is the number one surgery requested in the eyelid region.  When you look at a human skull, there are dark sockets where the eyes used to be.  The eyes don’t just sit in empty space, if they did, the eyeball itself would be injured every time that we shook our heads “yes” or “no.” Instead, the eyeballs are protected by a surrounding cushion of fat inside the eye socket.  This cushion of fat is held back by a “girdle-like” tissue called the orbital septum.  In some people (through no fault of their own) this girdle becomes a little stretched, and the fat herniates forwards, giving the appearance of baggy lower eyelids.  No big deal.  We go into the operating room, you get a little intravenous sedation (Pina Colada cocktail), I make a small incision on the inside of the eyelid, the fat pops up, I skillfully sculpt it, and you are on the road to recovery, which takes about a week.

 

Lid Margin and Punctal Malpositions, Canthal Tendon Laxity

Basset Hounds and Blood Hounds

Ever notice how the lower eyelids of Basset Hounds and Blood Hounds just don’t seem right?  That’s because they aren’t.  The lower eyelids are not firmly attached to the skull, the tendons have been stretched, and some of the lower eyelid is folded outwards looking all red and irritated.  It’s just an aspect of the breed.  Well, this happens to people too, only usually not to that extent.  That’s okay; I can fix this as well. I’m like the McGuiver of eyelid surgery… lid margin laxity is determined by grasping the eyelid and pulling it away from the eyeball (globe).  If it can be retracted 6 mm or more from the globe, it is deemed to be lax (distraction test).   Lower lid laxity left unaddressed during blepharoplasty may predispose the lid to turning outwards like a blood hound (cute on a Hush Puppy, but not on you)!    

 

 

So, that’s it.  I know that this was a very technical subject, but I hope that I made it fun by throwing in some celebrity examples to demonstrate the ideals and extremes of what I am looking for during a surgical consultation in my office.

 

Have a Beautiful Day!

Dr. Lisa

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Posted in Eyelid Surgery (Blepharoplasty) | Tagged | Comments closed

Scarless mole removal- shaken, not stirred!

Some moles ain't so bad lookin...

Some moles ain't so bad lookin...

One of the most popular procedures that I perform in my office is the scarless mole-removal.  It used to be that the only way to remove an unsightly mole was to have it surgically removed (excised), or sometimes the physician would just touch it with liquid nitorgen and then scrape it off with a scalpel.   Well, those days have gone the way of blood-letting and leeching (althought there is still some medical indication for leeches, beyond the scope of this entryl.. Enter the world of scarless mole removal.  The technique makes use of radiowaves that replace the scalpel.  I use the Ellman Surgitron device, the only device approved for use in surgical procedures, to gently shave away the mole layer by layer until we reach the smooth skin hiding beneath the surface.  Not all moles are candidates for this technique.  The moles must be slightly elevated, otherwise a different procedure is required.  The healing time is pretty simple.  First, I apply a numbing cream and let it sit for about 15 minutes.  Then, a tiny little injection (that you won't feel because of the numbing cream- aren't I nice?).  Then, I gently shave the mole flat.  The skin will appear a little yellower than the surrounding skin when you leave because this is the color of normal dermis.  In about 4 days a scab will form that drops off after 10-14 days.  Then, the skin is a little pinker than the surrounding skin for roughly 4-8 weeks (but you can use a concealer once the scab falls off).  That's it!  So, to repeat- day 1 the skin is yellow, day 4 the scab forms, 2 weeks the scab falls off, then 2 months all ais back to normal!  The only favor that I ask is that during the healing phase the area is potected from heavy sunlight or ocean water, so save your mole removals for after your trip to Monte Carlo!

 

Have a Beautiful Day!

-Dr. Lisa

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Out, out damned spot!- IPL for Sunspots.

A leapord CAN change it's spots, but why would it want to??
A leapord CAN change it's spots, but why would it want to??

I can always tell a golfer or a bicyclist by their hands, and a sailor by his or her ears.  I know, I know, it’s a cool party trick, but by mere virtue of the areas exposed to the sun I can guess a person’s hobby pretty quickly.  Golfers tend to have age spots on one hand only, whereas bicyclists have both hands equally exposed.  People who sail tend to have increased redness to the tops or their ears.  That being said, I’m kind of like the mechanic in that the same adage applies, “you can pay me now, or you can pay me later…” when it comes to undoing the sun damage.  Never fear, Intense Pulsed light is here!

 

Intense pulsed light [IPL] is a nonlaser light source that emits a broad, continuous spectrum of light energy.  Depending on the filter used, I can target the melanin pigment in the brown spots, or the red pigment in the red blood cells of the broken capillaries.  Normally pigmented skin is left unharmed.  You come into the office, and the area to be treated is covered in ice-cold ultrasound gel.  Then, we give you a cool pair of swim-goggles to wear so that you won’t be tempted to look at the very bright light (I need to see what I’m doing, but you can sit back and relax- no backseat drivers).  The procedure doesn’t hurt; it feels like a little rubber-band snap on the skin for a second.  A few little rubber-band snaps, then badda-bing, badda-boom, you’re done!  The spots will appear a little darker for about two days, but then they will eventually fade to being better than what they were before (the storm before the calm).  A few sessions might be required, but hey- it took a lifetime for the spots to form, yea?

 

IPL is also fantastic for treating rosacea (dilated capillaries and pores, especially around the nose), and melasma (dark spots on the face, usually from pregnancy- God love the little toddlers)!  Recent studies have shown that IPL also builds dermal collagen, so it tightens the skin as well (something that my assistant has been asserting for years- always trust a Brazilian when it comes to these things)!

 

So if the dark spots have got you down, just hop in, get some IPL and get back on the good foot— it can only make you younger again!!

 

Have a Beautiful Day!

 

Dr. Lisa

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Posted in Anti-Aging, Dark spots (Age Spots), Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Photofacial, Melasma, Rosacea | Tagged | Comments closed

Dreaming of Baby-Smooth Skin? Lasers to the Rescue!

Not a worry line in the world...
Not a worry line in the world...

Warning- this is a long post, but very worth a read…

There has always been interest in looking younger, but with the introduction of the carbon dioxide (CO2) laser for the treatment of photoaged skin increasing numbers of patients are being lured to the plastic surgeon’s office who were not yet ready for a “cold-steel” surgical solution for dynamic and static rhytids.  The ablative effect of the CO2 laser on the epidermal skin surface combined with the thermally induced collagen remodeling of the underlying dermis gave rise to a solution for both the pigmentary and structural changes associated with photoaged skin.  The impressive early treatment results using the CO2 laser gave rise to non-ablative technologies seeking to minimize epithelial damage while retaining the beneficial property of subsurface collagen remodeling.   Consumer and physician interest in “minimal-downtime” techniques of facial rejuvenation has driven the development of numerous laser and non-laser light sources that reverse the process of photoaging.  Since non-ablative photorejuvination leaves the epidermis intact, patients can return to their normal lifestyles almost immediately after treatment and the complications associated with ablative techniques (infection, post-procedural swelling, persistent redness and long-term discolorationare avoided; however, clinical improvement is limited when used as a solitary treatment method.   Both the patient and physician satisfaction is high with these non-ablative techniques and when combined with Botox, Fillers, and home skin care, results can approach those of the more invasive ablative CO2 laser therapies.  This post seeks to describe the currently available non-ablative technologies with respect toward their mechanism of action and their clinical use. 

 

 HOW ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT CAUSES SKIN DAMAGE

 

The typical changes associated with aging skin can be attributed to both intrinsic (genetic) and extrinsic (environmental) factors.  Cumulative exposure to sun remains the largest factor in aging skin and is responsible for most of the unwanted aesthetic effects.  Photoaged skin is characterized by wrinkles, loose skin, uneven pigmentation, sun-spots, sallow color, dilated blood vessels, increased pore size, and a leathery appearance.  In contrast, chronologically aged skin that has been protected from the sun is thin and has reduced elasticity but is otherwise smooth and unblemished.   Dermal damage induced by ultraviolet irradiation is can be seen microscopically as disorganized collagen fiber and the accumulation of elastin containing material (solar elastoses).  The collagen fibers are replaced by scar.  The amount of fiber breakdown is probably responsible for the fine wrinkle formation associated with sun-damaged skin.  Laboratory studies of sun-damaged skin reveals sustained elevation of matrix metalloproteinases.   Matrix metalloproteinases destroy collagen and elastin and are believed to initiate the molecular pathway underlying the physical changes seen in sun-damaged skin.

 

PHOTOREJUVINATION AND THE REVERSAL OF PHOTOAGING EFFECTS

 

Nonablative photorejuvenation of human skin is a procedure designed to confine selectively, without any epidermal damage, thermal injury to the papillary, and upper reticular dermis leading to fibroblast activation and synthesis of new collagen and extracellular matrix material (neocollagenesis).  The skin surface is not removed or modified.  Instead, dermal “remodeling” or “toning” as a wound healing response is initiated to regenerate subsurface collagen.  Photorejuvenation can span a broad range of wavelengths, light sources, and target chromophores, but may be generally divided into thermal and nonthermal mechanisms.  In general, photorejuvenation uses light energy to cause a thermal injury in target tissues.  Selective heating is achieved due to light energy being taken up by specific absorption molecules [chromophores] such as water, melanin [brown pigment], and hemoglobin [red pigment in blood vessels].  The laser energy absorbed by the target chromophore is then diffused in the form of heat to damage deeper surrounding tissues thus inducing the wound healing response.  Hemoglobin has significant light absorption in the violet, blue/green, and yellow portions of the spectrum.  The wavelengths suitable for targeting hemoglobin are in the absorption bands of 577-595 nm.  Epidermal melanin is the dominant chromophore in human skin.  Melanin is particularly concentrated in the basal layer typically 50-100 µm below the skin surface.  Melanin absorption is highest in the ultraviolet portion of the spectrum, but also significantly absorbs the visible and near-infrared wavelengths.  Subsequent heat conduction to adjacent dermal collagen may give rise to the observed histological changes necessary for nonablative photorejuvination. Laser-induced thermal injury should be confined to a zone 100 to 500 µm below the skin surface where the majority of solar elastoses in sun-damaged skin occur.  More superficial injury may be ineffective for wrinkle reduction; deeper injury may result in scarring.  

 

Photomodulation [LED therapy] is the term used to describe another form of non-ablative technology which uses low level light energy to directly stimulate fibroblast cells to make more collagen.  No heat is conducted to the deeper dermal layers.  The proposed mechanism is that the light molecules [photons] are absorbed directly by the fibroblast mitochondria [cell engines], thus increasing cell activity and the production of collagen. 

 

PATIENT SELECTION AND INDICATIONS

 

Matching the patient to the appropriate photorejuvinative modality is the key to success in rejuvenation of photodamaged skin.  Many methods of patient assessment are available, but the most useful include the Fitzpatrick skin type classification and the Glogau photoaging scale. Although these parameters become more important when the doctor is considering laser skin resurfacing, an understanding of these criteria is important when discussing the expectations and limitations of nonablative techniques with the patient.   The Fitzpatrick Sun-Reactive Skin Type gives a very good indication of potential skin color changes following treatment.  In general, patients with non-tanned skin color tolerate resurfacing procedures with minimal risk of color change.  Resurfacing should be undertaken cautiously in patients with tanned or darker skin color.  The Glogau photoaging scale categorizes photodamage based upon wrinkle depth to help the doctor to select the appropriate resurfacing procedure on the basis of lines and wrinkles that one wishes to correct.  Glogau classifies photoaging types as: type I, “no wrinkles”; type II, “wrinkles in motion”; type III, “wrinkles at rest”; and type IV, “only wrinkles.”    Patients with photoaging type I are not suitable candidates for aggressive interventions, nor are patients with photoaging type IV well served by superficial techniques. 

 

CLASSIFICATION OF LASERS/LIGHT SOURCES

 

Numerous non-invasive techniques exist for rejuvenating facial skin.  These technologies can be separated into 3 categories:  1). Those that improve skin texture and pigmentation- Intense Pulsed Light [IPL], Light-emitting diodes [LED], Non-ablative Neodynium:YAG lasers [Nd-YAG], 1540 nm Er:Glass laser, Pulsed Dye Lasers [PDL], and Fractionated Resurfacing [Fraxel/Pixel]  2). Wrinkle Removal- CO2 laser, Fraxel/Pixel Laser; and 3). Skin Tightening [Thermage, Titan]. 

 

CLINICAL APPLICATIONS AND USES OF LASERS/LIGHT SOURCES FOR PHOTOREJUVINATION

 

1320-nm  Neodynmium:Yttrium-aluminum-garnet (Nd:YAG)

 

The 1320-nm Nd:YAG laser was the first commercially available system designed exclusively for selective dermal heating.

 

Manufacturers

(Cool Touch I, II, & III, New Star Lasers, Roseville, CA)

 

Mechanism of Action

Nd:YAG 1320 nm irradiation is nonspecifically absorbed in the human dermis.  This wavelength is unique for its horizontal scattering.  Such a wavelength when delivered at fairly high fluences can cause significant dermal damage.  Such an approach can also create the potential for significant epidermal blistering.  However, when 1320 nm Nd:YAG laser irradiation is coupled with cryogen cooling of the epidermis, a dermal wound can be created with little risk of epidermal damage.   The laser utilizes a non-contact dynamic cooling agent (tetrafluoroethane) which is sprayed onto the skin for 30 msec, with a delay of 40 msec before each laser pulse (pre-cooling modality).  This protects the superficial 50 to 100 µm of epidermis, and allows adequate heating of the sub-surface layers to create new fibroblasts, which will create new collagen.  A thermal sensor within the laser hand-piece monitors pre-treatment skin temperatures as well as peak therapeutic temperatures.  The significant difference between Cool Touch I and Cool Touch II is the addition of a post-cooling modality.  In the post-cooling modality, the cryogen is sprayed immediately after the laser pulse.  It is thought that this will allow deeper penetration, yet will still protect the superficial epidermis.  Peak temperatures of 37-39º C are desired.  There is a built in safety mechanism in this device.  If the temperature of the skin surface is 40º C or higher, the unit will not fire.   The Cool Touch III device has a system upgrade that allows for pre-, during, and post- treatment cooling modalities for added patient safety and comfort.

 

Clinical indications

Mild crow’s feet and lines around the mouth. 

 

Advantages of therapy

Overall patient satisfaction in subjective improvement of skin texture.  Histologic increases in collagen concentration in 50% of subjects that does not necessarily correlate with clinical improvement.  Slight but statistically significant improvement for Fitzpatrick skin types I or II and mild, moderate, or severe wrinkles.

 

Disadvantages of therapy

Not meant for those with extensive sunspots.  Those patients are best treated with either an ablative laser or a specific pigmented-lesion laser [IPL]. Using a laser without a post-cooling modality increases the risk of blistering, hyperpigmentation, and pitted scarring if the skin surface temperature is allowed to exceed 50º C.  Mild post-treatment swelling and redness lasting 1 to 3 days can occur when using a laser without a post-cooling modality, whereas skin redness associated with lasers having a post-cooling modality generally subsides in about 20-30 minutes.

 

Contraindications to therapy

History of photosensitivity, inflammatory skin disease, or use of oral retinoids within one year prior to proposed treatment.

 

Patient preparation

The patient’s skin is cleansed with a gentle cleanser and then degreased with toner or acetone. A topical anesthetic paste (Photocaine, University Pharmacy, Salt Lake City) is applied for 30 minutes. 

 

Anticipated results

 

Mild redness as noted above.  Variable improvement in facial wrinkles, with maximal improvement noted in more severe lines.

 

1064-nm Q-switched Neodynmium:Yttrium-aluminum-garnet (Nd:YAG)

 

The Q-switched Nd:YAG laser was the first laser used as a nonablative tool for skin rejuvenation.

 

Manufacturers

 

(Medlite IV; HOYA Conbio, Santa Clara, CA; and QYAG-5; Palomar, Burlington, MA)

 

Mechanism of action

 

The chromophores for 1064-nm radiation are, in decreasing order are melanin [brown], hemoglobin [red], and water.  Water weakly absorbs laser energy at this wavelength and is gently heated over the optical penetration depth of the beam (about 5-10 mm); however, severe heating remains localized to the red and brown pigments.  It is believed that the absorbed laser energy causes the localized rupture of capillaries and melanosomes, giving rise to a partially injured epidermis and subsequent skin repair. 

 

 

Clinical indications

 

Facial telangiectasias (spider veins), acne rosacea, mild sun damaged skin.

 

 Advantages of therapy

 

Mild improvement in 97% of mild wrinkles, 68% improvement in moderate wrinkles, 20% improvement in brown and red pigment changes in fair to slightly tanned skin,  35% improvement in pigmentary changes of skin types darker than tanned skin. 

 

Disadvantages of therapy

 

Mild redness lasting 1 to 2 hours (all patients), and bruising.  Post-treatment skin color changes either lighter or darker in tanned or darker skin.  

 

Contraindications to therapy

 

None, however lower fluences should be used in patients with darker skin tones to avoid temporary skin lightening.

 

Patient preparation

 

The patient’s skin is cleansed thoroughly and jewelry is removed.

 

Anticipated results

 

Mild redness persisting for 1 to 2 hours, wrinkle reduction and pigmentary improvement as specified above.

 

Fractional Skin Resurfacing

 

To date there have been two categories of laser skin rejuvenation—ablative and non-ablative, and both have significant disadvantages.  Ablative techniques resurface broad areas of the skin, but carry a high-risk profile.  Non-ablative techniques, carry fewer risks, but produce limited clinical improvement.  FractionalTM Photothermolysis is a new technology that promises to deliver the benefits formerly only realized using ablative techniques with the minimal downtime enjoyed by patients treated with non-ablative technologies.

 

Manufacturer

 

FraxelTM SR (Reliant Technologies, Inc., San Diego, CA), Pixel (Alma Lasers)

 

Mechanism of action

 

Fractional  Laser Treatment (FLT) produces thousands of tiny treatment zones on skin, known as “microthermal treatment zones” (MTZs). The target chromophore for FLT is water, however, only a very small fraction of the skin is treated at one sitting.  Each wound field is composed of thousands of microthermal zones and surrounding spared tissue units that comprise “nodes” of skin repair.  The wound healing response differs from previous techniques because viable cells exist between treatment zones, including epidermal stem cells and transient amplifying cell populations.  Each laser hit produces a 30-70 micron plug of Microscopic Epidermal Necrotic Debris (MENDs) that naturally exfoliate in approximately 14 days.  During this time period, the skin takes on a bronzed appearance. The most superficial layer of the skin contains very little water, therefore it remains intact after FLT, preventing water loss and reducing the risk of infection. The Fraxel laser energy passes through the most superficial layer of the skin and into the deeper dermal collagen.

   

Clinical indications

 

All epidermal and dermal changes associated with photoaging.

 

Advantages of therapy

 

Pain levels very well tolerated by patients.  Minimal downtime.  Ease of physician use.  Decreased risk profile secondary to intact barrier function of the superficial skin surface.  

 

Disadvantages of therapy

 

Sunburn like sensation for 1 hour after treatment.  Post-treatment redness lasting 5 to 7 days.  Bronzed appearance lasting 3 to 14 days. Gradual treatment results with full tightening effect apparent after approximately three months.

 

 Contraindications to therapy

 

Any patient with a known lidocaine allergy should not undergo Fraxel laser treatment.  Patients currently using Accutane, or those who are immunocompromised or have a history of keloid scarring should be excluded from treatment as well.  Like most other laser treatments that cause some removal of the epidermal protective layer, the Fraxel laser treatment could induce a herpetic [cold sore] outbreak in susceptible individuals.  Most physicians institute anti-viral prophylaxis prior to laser treatment.

 

Patient preparation

 

The treatment area is thoroughly cleansed prior to the procedure using a mild, gently abrasive skin cleanser.  OptiGuideTM Blue, a water-soluble tint, is applied to highlight the contours of the skin, and to allow the laser’s tracking system to adjust the treatment pattern with respect to hand piece velocity.  A lipid based topical anesthetic ointment is applied to the skin for about 45 minutes, after which the treatment may be applied directly through the anesthetic ointment. 

 

Suggested treatment parameters

 

A series of 3 to 5 treatments, spaced four to seven days apart has been found to be effective.  A complete procedure consists of a series of horizontal and vertical passes with the laser.  Each pass consists of overlapping strokes.  Each treatment session addresses approximately 20 % of the skin surface.

 

Anticipated results

 

There is a mild sunburn sensation for about an hour then virtually no discomfort.  The skin will have a pinkish tone for 5-7 days with minimal swelling. Patients may apply cosmetics immediately after the procedure if desired.  The skin is completely re-epithelialized within 24 hours.  The bronze appearance created by the MENDs lasts for 3 to 14 days.  Treatment results are gradual, with a stepwise improvement in surface appearance and texture.  It takes about three months to achieve the full tightening effect.

 

 

1540-nm Erbium:glass Laser

 

Manufacturers

 

(Aramis, Quantel Medical, Les Ulis Cedex, France)

 

Mechanism of action

 

The Er:glass 1540 nm Aramis-Quantel laser emits a wavelength of particular interest due to its high water absorption which deposits the laser energy primarily in the dermis.  The skin is cooled using the Constans Handpiece (Quantel Medical, Clermont-Ferrand, France).  This is a cryo-sapphire-tipped handpiece in direct contact with the skin with purified tetrafluoroethane cryogen circulating inside.  The handpiece has a real-time temperature monitor at the sapphire for immediate feedback. 

 

Clinical indications

 

Crow’s feet and fine lines around the mouth.

 

Advantages of therapy

 

Lack of pain, discomfort, or downtime.  Collagen production was evaluated with silicone molds and ultrasound measurement. Ultrasound revealed a 17% increase in dermal thickness.  Silicone imprints were analyzed and showed a 40% improvement in dermal collagen as noted by the reduction in anisotropy.  Ultrasound imaging demonstrated an increase of the dermis thickness as a function of time.  Biopsy specimens show the reduction of solar elastotic fibers beginning 7 days after a single treatment, more markedly after 3 weeks, and very few of them left 2 months after one treatment.  Superficial collagen bands in the upper dermis thickened and the new collagen fibers seemed to be arranged more horizontally.  Six weeks after the fourth treatment, 62% of the patients were satisfied with their results.

 

 Disadvantages of therapy

 

Some patients may have greater expectations and be disappointed with their results.  Improvement is slow (in months), and mild, with most patients appreciating more elastic and firmer skin.

 

 Contraindications to therapy

 

Photosensitivity, use of oral retinoids within one year of proposed treatment.

 

Patient preparation

 

Before treatment the area to be treated is prepared with a skin cleanser only.  The treatment can be performed without any kind of anesthesia.

 

585- nm Pulsed Dye Laser

 

Manufacturers

 

(VBeam; Godelz, Wayland, MA; and VStar;Cynosure, Helmsford, MA)

 

Mechanism of action

Pulsed dye (PDL) lasers emit yellow light (585 nm).  This wavelength of laser light allows for 50% dermal penetration to a depth of approximately 400 microns and is specifically absorbed in the blood vessels of the upper dermal vascular plexus, after passing through the epidermis with minimal interaction.  The light energy that reaches the vascular plexus is of insufficient energy to cause vessel rupture or coagulation, yet is of sufficient intensity to induce a low grade inflammatory response.  Endothelial cells within the injured vessel walls release inflammatory mediators that stimulates fibroblast activity.  The fibroblasts give rise to new collagen production.  

 

Clinical indications

Crows’ feet, port wine stains, cherry-red spots, broken blood capillaries.

 

Advantages of therapy

 

After six months, 90% of patients with mild wrinkling demonstrated 50% or more clinical improvement.  Deeper wrinkles demonstrated greater improvement than shallowwrinkles.  Enhanced collagen production by an average of 84% measured 72 hours after a single laser treatment. 

 

 Disadvantages of therapy

 

Bruising and swelling in all patients (lasting 1-2 weeks).

Contraindications to therapy

None.

Patient preparation

No preparation or application of topical or general anesthesia is required.

 

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)

 

Manufacturers

Quantum SR; Lumenis, Canta Clara, CA; Estelux; Palomar, Burlington, MA; Prolite; Alderm, Irvine, CA; and Aurora; Syneron, Yokneam, Israel, Alma Lasers)

 

Mechanism of action

 

The intense pulsed light is a nonlaser light source that emits a broad, continuous spectrum of light energy ranging from 500 to 1200 nm.  With cutoff filters, shorter wavelength portions of the spectrum can be blocked.  Depending on the filter used, the longer portion of the transmitted spectrum targets hemoglobin [red], melanin [brown], and water to varying degrees (shorter filters favor hemoglobin and melanin heating).  The effect on dermal collagen is presumably caused by heat diffusion from the blood vessels and by the secretion of inflammatory mediators induced by direct vessel heating.  Tissue water is also directly heated to a smaller degree.  The Quantum SR has a thermoelectrically chilled delivery system, and when used with an ice-cold coupling gel, minimizes discomfort and the potential for epithelial burning.

 

Clinical indications

 

The Quantum SR is effective in the treatment of vascular and pigmentary lesions of the skin in the face, neck, chest, and hands.  Vascular lesions such as rosacea, erythema, flushing, broken capillaries, and post-laser redness respond well to intense pulsed light therapy.  Pigmentary changes such as hyperpigmentation, melasma, and lines of demarcation after laser or chemical peels also are treatable with intense pulsed light therapy.  The device is also useful in the treatment of mild to moderate facial wrinkles.

 

 Advantages of therapy

 

The advantages of IPL when compared to other nonablative technologies include minimal risk of eye  injury, the ability to treat larger areas of nonfacial skin, rapid visualization of improvement in treated areas, and minimal patient discomfort.     

 

Disadvantages of therapy

 

Treatment results in an immediate darkening of already hyperpigmented lesions, a reaction which should be explained to patients prior to treatment.  Within 24 to 48 hours following treatment, dark spots will take on a darker and crusty “peppery” appearance.  These will  spontaneously peel away over five to six days post-treatment.

 

Contraindications to therapy

 

There are four relative and unproven contraindications to performing IPL photorejuvination.  These include patients who have a history of photosensitivity reaction, those taking photosensitizing medications, or the use of Accutane within 6 months prior to intended treatment.

 

Patient preparation

 

Topical anesthesia is not required for every patient.  The anesthetic is applied to the skin surface and occluded with plastic wrap for 1 to 1-1/2 hours prior to treatment.  Before treatment the skin is thoroughly cleansed and a thin layer of ice-cold coupling gel is applied to the areas to be treated.

 

Suggested treatment parameters

 

Guidelines when using IPL technology are to be conservative during the initial treatment session using lower fluences and subsequently watching for tissue response. Begin treatments in a nonvisual zone (i.e. postauricular), examine results of a test spot and adjust parameters accordingly, the endpoint of therapy is mild swelling and redness.  On subsequent visits the patient should be asked about and bruising, blisters, or swelling in response to the prior treatment.   Treatments were spaced 3 weeks apart.

 

Anticipated results

 

Other than mild, transient redness, there are no other immediate visible signs of treatment, and patients may resume normal activities immediately.  Ninety percent of patients achieve greater than 75% improvement in rosacea, 84% improvement in fine wrinkles, 78% improvement in skin coarseness, and 49% improvement in pore size.  Microscopic analysis reveals early signs of new collagen formation, diminished brown pigment granules, and reduced pore size. 

 

 

Light Emitting Diodes (LED)

 

Manufacturers

 

GentleWaves (Light Bioscience, Virgina Beach, VA).

 

Mechanism of action

 

Light emitting diode [LED] photomodulation uses coded pulses of low energy, non-laser, non-thermal, light energy to stimulate mitochondrial activity, increase collagen and fibroblast production and to decrease collagenase (metalloproteinase-MMP 1).   Light emitting diodes are narrow band emitters of a broad range of light energy ranging from ultraviolet to visible to infrared.  LEDs typically emit visible yellow light. It is possible that this narrow band wavelength profile contributes to the unique characteristics of LED photomodulation. [3].  

 

Clinical indications

 

GentleWaves LED photomodulation reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as improves the appearance of photodamage induced dyspigmentation and increased pore size. 

 

 Advantages of therapy

 

No side effects, downtime, or pain.  Safe for all skin types.  Fast and convenient.  A multicenter clinical trial conducted on 90 photoaged women revealed improvement in the crow’s feet appearance in 62%, and 36% improvement in the upper lip appearance.  Other observations included a 27% reduction in skin roughness, 14% improvement in pore size, and 25% reduction in redness.  Microscopic analysis showed an increase in extracellular matrix proteins associated with clinical improvement in wrinkles.

 

Disadvantages of therapy

None.

Contraindications to therapy

None.

Patient preparation

Skin cleansing prior to treatment.

Suggested treatment parameters

 The currently recommended regimen is 50 seconds weekly for 8 weeks.

Anticipated results

As above.

 

Radiofrequency Device: Thermalifting

 

Manufacturers

Thermage (Thermage, Hayward, CA).

 

Mechanism of action

This device delivers volumetric and uniform heating to the deep dermis via a unique form of radiofrequency (RF) energy.   Unlike lasers, which target specific chromophores on the principle of selective photothermolysis, radiofrequency causes movement of charged particles within the skin, and the resultant molecular motion generates heat.  The heat in turn causes collagen shrinkage and new collagen deposition.  The treatment tip delivers the RF energy to the skin with simultaneous surface cooling.  A coupling fluid is used to ensure proper contact with the skin.  Surface cooling is maintained throughout treatment cycle (pre-, during, and post- treatment) as cryogen is sprayed onto the cooling membrane in the treatment tip. 

 

Clinical indications

 

Thermage is FDA approved for the skin tightening of the eyelids, face, neck, arms, stomach, hands, buttocks, and legs.

 

Advantages of therapy

 

No downtime.  High patient satisfaction levels.  Patients frequently commented that the treated area felt tighter and that family members and friends noticed a difference in their appearance.  Changes in appearance were corroborated microscopically with findings of a thickened epidermis and increased density of dermal collagen post-treatment. 

 

Disadvantages of therapy

 

Some patients relay moderate discomfort levels during the procedure. 

 

Contraindications to therapy

Metallic implants in the body (artificial knee, artificial hip, metal rods for spinal stabilization), pacemakers, and pregnancy.

 

Patient preparation

 

Before treatment the skin is thoroughly cleansed and all topical anesthetic cream, make up, and jewelry are removed.  A thin layer of conductive fluid is applied to the areas to be treated.

 

 

Anticipated results

 

All patients experience mild redness and swelling in the treatment areas that resolves completely within one hour post-treatment.  All patients see an immediate response, with more rapid improvement at 6 weeks culminating at 6 months after a single treatment.  Younger patients (average age 51) tend to respond better and that higher dial settings and corresponding higher energy per pulse correlated with better response.  Those who had the entire surface area of the face and neck treated tend to do better than those with partial treatment.  More favorable results are derived from more frequent passes of the device using lower energy settings.

 

Titan  1100-1800 nm Infrared Laser

 

Manufacturers

Cutera, Brisbane, CA.

 

Mechanism of action

The Titan laser was developed as a “light based” response to radio frequency skin tightening devices.  The Titan laser operates between 1100 nm and 1800 nm targeting water, resulting in heating depths from 1-3 mm.  The epidermal temperature is kept at or below 40º C by pre-, during, and post-cooling of the epidermis by a sapphire tip. 

 

Clinical indications

The Titan is cleared for the treatment of wrinkles in Europe, and for general dermatologic use in Canada.  In the United States, the Titan is cleared for superficial heating, for the purpose of elevating tissue temperature for temporary increase in local circulation where applied.  The primary function is the tightening of skin laxity in all parts of the body such as the area beneath the chin,  jowls, abdomen, arms, and other areas.  It may not be indicated for the deep creases that extend from the nostril to the lip (nasolabial fold).

 

 

 

Advantages of therapy

Manufacturer claims increased safety profile compared to standard radio frequency devices, increased predictability of energy application prevents side effects of tissue overheating and subsequent fat atrophy.  Superior epidermal cooling method and scalable platform with a variety of handpieces, including 2 IPL handpieces to treat for hair removal and vascular lesions

 

 Disadvantages of therapy

 Does not penetrate as deeply as Thermage, therefore multiple treatment sessions are required.

 

 Contraindications to therapy

None.

 

Patient preparation

Skin is cleansed prior to procedure.  No anesthesia is required.  At higher energy levels used to treat larger areas of the body such as the abdomen, providing patient with oral narcotic and anxiety medication increases treatment tolerance

 

Anticipated results

Immediate improvement in skin laxity followed by gradual improvement over a three to six month period as new collagen is formed and the skin tightens. 

 

IN SUMMARY

 

With the expanding variety of therapies available for patients seeking facial skin rejuvenation, the physician must appreciate the indications, complications, benefits, and limitations of each.  Nonablative photorejuvenation offers a new approach in treating photodamaged skin.  Practitioners of nonablative skin remodeling have advocated serial treatments to achieve gradual, cumulative improvement.  Collagen deposition occurs over a period of several months, so the final cosmetic appearance is not immediately evident.  Patients often describe an improvement in skin tone after nonablative laser treatment.  Despite these findings, the ease of treatment, minimal discomfort, and limited side-effect profile makes nonablative laser remodeling an appealing addition to the cosmetic surgeon’s treatment modalities.  The drawback of these positive features is mild cosmetic improvement.  Subtle enhancements may be acceptable to some patients.  Nonablative laser resurfacing is an excellent option for patients unwilling to risk the side effects, pay for the more expensive procedures, or take time off for a lengthy recovery as from ablative resurfacing techniques.  Proper patient evaluation and counseling will provide for optimal patient satisfaction.  With the continued focus on facial skin rejuvenation, nonablative techniques will continue to evolve and further meet with the demands of our ever-growing, sophisticated patient population’s needs.    

 

Have a Beautiful Day!

 

Dr. Lisa

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Posted in Acne, Anti-Aging, Dark spots (Age Spots), Fractionated Skin Resurfacing (Fraxel/Pixel), Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Photofacial, LED Therapy, Laser Skin Resurfacing, Melasma, NonSurgical Body Sculpting, Pulsed Dye Lasers [PDL], Rosacea, Skin Tightening | Tagged | Comments closed

Never too rich, too thin, or too much filler in your face!

Come'on Doc, there's room for one or two more drops!!

Come'on Doc, there's room for one or two more drops!!

 

 

Since the introduction of injectable collagen for improving or eliminating facial wrinkles, many new agents have been introduced with safer and more effective properties.  Techniques of injection have evolved to less invasive ones, and their combination with other minimally invasive therapies for the skin, such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels, and radiofrequency-based and light-based treatments, has increased the degree of esthetic results and the level of satisfaction for patients and physicians.  There have been many discussions theorizing the attributes of the perfect filling agent.  We want a product that can be administered safely, conveniently, rapidly, and painlessly and without leaving any traces that it has been applied.  We want a product that does not result in any complications and that lasts a long time. The ideal substance should be “biocompatible, nonimmunogenic, nonresorbable, nonpyogenic, noncarcinogenic, inexpensive, and nonmigratory, with the ability to be stored, shaped, removed, and sterilized easily”.  We have not yet achieved this level of perfection, but the nonanimal-derived, stabilized hyaluronic acid products are the current state of the art, fulfilling much of our desired criteria. 

 

HISTORICAL  PERSPECTIVE

 

The history of modern soft-tissue augmentation dates to the late 1800s, when injectable fat was first used for tissue augmentation.   Since then, many substances and devices have been marketed for the purpose of cosmetically improving soft-tissue defects and wrinkles.   Liquid injectable silicone has been used since the 1940’s as a soft tissue filler.  In the 1940s, Dow Corning (Midland, MI) produced DC-4, its first silicone containing product used as a lubricant in military bombers.  The 1940’s also witnessed the first use of silicone in humans for cosmetic improvement.  By the 1960’s misuse was rampant, with large volumes of pure and adulterated forms of silicone being injected with subsequent complications.  In 1974, Dow trademarked a refined liquid silicone with established safety and efficacy.  Nevertheless, the controversy that swirled around silicone breast implants led to the demonization of injectable silicone as well.  The American Society of Dermatologic Surgery responded in 1993 by concluding that the use of liquid injectable silicone by the microdroplet technique is an efficient and safe procedure for many individuals1.   Two U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)-approved medical grade liquid injectable silicones are available today.  Adatosil (Escalon Medical Corp., Chicago, Illinois) and Silikon (Alcon Laboratories, Fort Worth, Texas) are approved for the tamponade of retinal detachments and their off-label use for soft tissue augmentation is permitted by the FDA’s Modernization act. 

 

For the last 2 decades, the most widely available and widely used substance for filling in facial wrinkles has been collagen.  Approximately 25% of the protein in the human body and 75% in the skin is collagen.  Investigators in the early 1970’s developed  a purified human and bovine [cow] collagen that underwent successful clinical trials in human patients.  Subsequent to these results, Zyderm I was developed by the Collagen Corp. and tested by 14 investigators from 1977 to 1978.  In 1981, after 6.5 years of development and clinical trials, Zyderm I received FDA approval for soft tissue augmentation.   Injectable bovine collagen has been used for facial rejuvenation since the 1980’s.  It requires skin testing before it can be used as a filler.  The second generation, derived from human fibroblast cell culture does not require prior skin testing.  The average longevity of correction with these products is about 3 months.  Collagen fillers produced from bovine sources have a risk of inducing allergic reactions.  Sensitivity skin tests prior to treatment are recommended for bovine derived collagen but not for human-derived fibroblast collagen products.

 

In the last decade, hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan) has been shown to possess many properties that suggest its value in soft-tissue augmentation.  Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide found in the extracellular matrix of all tissues of all vertebrates and comprises 56% of the extracellular matrix of human skin.  It is composed of a water-loving sugar similar to clear gelatin.   Hyaluronic Acid Products produce longer lasting results and fewer hypersensitivity reactions than collagen products: 

 

Restylane (Medicis, Scottsdale, Arizona), FDA approved December 12, 2002, has  20 mg/mL of hyaluronic acid with a gel bead size of 250 µm and 100,000 units per mL.

 

Perlane (Q-Med, Uppsala, Sweden),  approved in the United States, has 20 mg/mL of hyaluronic acid with a gel bead size of 1000 µm and 10,000 units per mL.

 

Restylane Fine Lines (Q-Med, Uppsala, Sweden), not approved in the United States, has 20 mg/mL of hyaluronic acid with a gel bead size of 100 µm and 250,000 units per mL.

 

Restylane, Perlane, and Restylane Fine Lines are NASHA products, biosynthesized from a nonanimal source.  Restylane is used for the filling of fine lines and moderate wrinkles and lasts an average of 9 months.

 

Perlane is used for the filling of deeper furrows and contour irregularities.  Because it is thicker, it can allow for more effective filling and lasts longer than Restylane.  Restylane can be layered over Perlane for correction of residual superficial irregularities.  Restylane Fine Lines (not available in the United States) is used for the correction of delicate upper lip wrinkles.

 

Sculptra (Polylactic Acid)

 

Sculptra (Dermik Laboratories, Berwyn, Pennsylvania) is synthetic polylactic acid powder (0.15 g per bottle)  that has to be mixed and put into suspension in four to five mL of diluents (half sterile water and half lidocaine) immediately prior to injection to avoid clogging of the 26 gauge needle (supplied with product).  This product works well to fill in broad irregular areas.  It must be injected subdermally.  Because the amount of correction improves with time, a gradual filling in the contour defect is recommended.  Rather than aiming for complete correction in one session, partial correction is augmented in 3- to 4- month intervals3.

 

 

 

Artefill [Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA)]

 

Artefill (Artes Medical, San Diego, California) is composed of uniform polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) beads (30-42 µm in diameter) suspended in collagen.  The collagen acts as a temporary filler, and the microspheres create an inflammatory response with secondary collagen production and a longer lasting effect.  Because it contains bovine collagen, it requires skin testing before use3.

 

 

Matridex (Hypromellose, dextanomer  DEAE)

 

Matridex (BioPolymer GmbH, Germany) is hypromellose, dextranomer DEAE suspended in hyaluronic acid and cross-linked hyaluronic acid.  The hyaluronic acid provides temporary filling without the need for pretreatment skin testing and the hypromellose and dextanomer DEAE (positively charged microparticles) promote fibroblast formation and collagen neogenesis, inducing a longer lasting effect.  It is not approved in the United States.

 

Alloderm (Acellular Cadaveric Dermis)

 

Alloderm (Lifecell Corporation, Branchburg, New Jersey) is a solid acellular biological implant that is useful in eyelid and lip reconstruction and for repairing large facial contour deformities.  Human dermal tissue is harvested from cadavers.  The cells, which are targets for the immune response, are removed without altering the collagen and extracellular matrix of the dermis.  This immunologically inert tissue then serves as a framework to support revascularization and cellular repopulation.  Cymetra (Lifecell Corporation) is its micronized, injectable form.  It is supplied as a cryofractured, dried, acellular, particulate dermal matrix.  When refrigerated, it has a shelf life of 2 years.  We have found that when it is injected for lip augmentation considerable swelling and rapid resorption are the rule. 

 

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Posted in Artefill, Collagen, Facial Fillers, Juvederm, Radiesse (Radiance), Restylane & Perlane, Sculptra | Tagged | Comments closed

SwanSong for Boring Old Microdermabrasion!

No extreme makeover needed, SilkPeel will smooth those ruffled feathers!

No extreme makeover needed, SilkPeel will smooth those ruffled feathers!

 

 

 

SilkPeel Dermalinfusion is the most advanced skin treatment available today.  Offered exclusively to physicians, SilkPeel provides simultaneous diamond exfoliation of the skin and infusion of specialized treatment serums deep into the skin where they are the most effective.   SilkPeel’s unique diamond-tipped heads set SilkPeel apart from other microdermabrasion procedures that rely upon abrasive particles that unevenly exfoliate the skin.  As spinning medical grade diamonds buff the skin, one of four solutions is delivered:  clarifying solution for acne-prone skin, hydrating solution for dry skin, brightening solution for discolored skin, or antioxidant solution for damaged skin. The solutions do not just sit on top of the skin like a lotion or cream would, instead the patented SilkPeel handpiece deeply delivers the vitamins, antioxidants and other therapeutic ingredients that your skin needs most.  Dermalinfusion optimizes the benefits of exfoliation without the often uncomfortable and painful effects that people experience with most peels.   Clinical studies have shown that SilkPeel provides even abrasion across the treatment area and rapid hydration to the underlying cells.  The current family of solutions includes:

Clarifying Formula- This anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory solution promotes clear skin for patients with pustular or cystic acne using Salicylic Acid.  The added aloe extract soothes even the most sensitive skin.

Hydrating Formula-Hyaluronic acid plus Allantoin and Glycerin combine to deliver rich, nourishing moisture to very dry skin, improving overall skin texture and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.  

Brightening Formula- Utilizing a trio of natural brightening agents- Kojic Acid, Arbutin, and Mulberry- this solution neutralizes active melanocytes while calming the skin with Aloe and Glycerin. Great for Melasma and Age Spots.

Antioxidant Formula- A proprietary blend of antioxidants including the power of Vitamin C neutralizes free radical formation and stimulates collagen production for younger looking skin.

The SilkPeel is the only system of its kind capable of running a disinfection cycle, making it the safest and most hygienic system on the market.

The procedure can be performed in a twenty minute office appointment with none of the residual “grittiness” of traditional microdermabrasion. 

A note from Dr. Zdinak:  “I first encountered the SilkPeel device while at the 2008 World Congress on Antiaging and Aesthetic Medicine in Paris, France.   We tested the SilkPeelTM device in my Manhattan office on individuals who had previous, ongoing experience with traditional microdermabrasion and everyone preferred the SilkPeel treatment (including my friend from Beverly Hills).  My pores were cleaner than after any other cosmetic therapy that I have tried, and my skin was porcelain smooth and glowing for the following week.   A unanimous decision was made to purchase the SilkPeel device that very day, and we haven’t used standard microdermabrasion since!”  

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Posted in Acne, Anti-Aging, Dark spots (Age Spots), Melasma, Nutrition for the Skin, Rosacea, SilkPeel Diamond Microdermabrasion, Skin Care 101, Uncategorized | Tagged | Comments closed

What causes cellulite?

French food gives you cellulite! (But, I love it).

French food gives you cellulite! (But, I love it).

 

 

Cellulite refers to the lumpy fat bulges on the thighs and buttocks of over 95% of the normal female population.  Women have three layers of fat beneath the skin.  The top layer is called the subcutaneous layer and this is where cellulite occurs.  The bottom two layers are the fat reserves where excess calories are stored.  Cellulite does not occur in these deeper layers.  Directly beneath the subcutaneous fat layer there is a layer of connective tissue comprised of collagen called the “fibrous septae.”   This septae separates the fat cells into compartments to provide structural support for the skin and to conserve heat within the body.  When the fibrous septae becomes damaged, the subcutaneous fat cells are pushed through the damaged regions and are squeezed into small bulges that give the overlying skin the “puckered” or “dimpled” appearance that we call cellulite.

There are many reasons why most women are predisposed to cellulite whereas the condition is much rarer in men.  To begin with, the underlying structure of the skin is different in males verses females.  Male skin tends to be thicker and the fibrous septae has strong cross-linking of the connective tissue.  Females have thinner skin and no cross-linking of the underlying septae.  Women have more fat layers than men, and the subcutaneous fat layer in women is regulated by hormones and does not respond to diet and exercise.  The female hormone estrogen causes these fat cells to store fat, whereas the male hormone testosterone stimulates the fat cells to break down fat.  So, women are genetically superior at storing energy in the form of fat to provide energy during pregnancy.  Women also have a higher percentage of body fat in the areas of the thighs, hips, and abdomen, and these fat cells are resistant to diet and exercise. 

Several factors can contribute to the decreased circulation and fluid retention that gives rise to cellulite.

Genetics- Cellulite does seem to run in families and the weak veins and poor lymphatic drainage seems to be genetically inherited.

Smoking- Cigarette smoke contains free radicals that damage the blood vessel walls, leading to inflammation and leakage.  In addition, the nicotine in cigarettes constricts the blood vessels, further reducing the microcirculation to the area.  It has been shown that the blood perfusion to the skin in a smoker is 65% less than in that in a non-smoking individual. 

Estrogen and Progesterone- Estrogen determines the number of fat cells in the body and promotes the accumulation of these cells in the buttocks, legs, and thighs.  Progesterone can lead to weight-gain, fluid retention, and leaky blood vessels.

Pregnancy- Aside from the increased hormone fluctuations in pregnancy, the expanding womb exerts increased pressure on the veins and lymphatic vessels in the lower body, predisposing cellulite formation.

Diet- There is no direct link to diet and cellulite reduction.  Once cellulite is formed, the fat cells have enlarged and the fibrous septae has been damaged.  Diet and exercise can shrink the size of the fat cells, but if the weight is regained the cellulite will return.  There has been some suggestion that following an organic diet results in less toxin accumulation in the fat cells and can in some instances prevent the formation of cellulite.

Cellulite is a progressive disease that develops in phases:

Phase One- Blood circulation and lymphatic drainage to the subcutaneous layer are impaired.  This leads to fluid retention and the accumulation of toxins that damages the connective tissues making them more fibrous.  This stage is primarily asymptomatic and no cellulite is visible to the naked eye. 

Phase Two- Decreased circulation damages the capillaries and veins and the blood vessels become more “leaky” increasing the pressure in the tissues and further restricting circulation and fluid drainage.  Cellulite bumps have still not appeared at this stage.

Phase Three- After a few months of lymphatic fluid  accumulation the fat cells become swollen and begin to push up against the skin.  At this stage, the first “lumps and bumps” of cellulite appear.

Phase Four- The accumulated lymphatic fluid causes the fibrous septae to further thicken, trapping and squeezing the fat cells, thus further reducing circulation to the area.

Phase Five- The presence of this high pressure system shunts bloodflow away from the affected area and the fibers thicken more, trap more fat cells, and form a huge honeycomb-like structure that gives rise to the hallmark appearance of cellulite.

The most common sites for cellulite formation are the thighs and buttocks.  However, cellulite can form on the lower abdomen, and is sometimes associated with digestive disorders.  Cellulite can also form on the upper arms in response to poor bloodflow to the region.

Liposuction does not cure cellulite, and in fact can make it worse.  As mentioned above, women have three layers of fat stores, the subcutaneous fat layer that resides just below the skin surface, the superficial reserve fat layer, and the deep fat reserve layer.  The subcutaneous fat layer is controlled by hormones, and liposuction in this layer actually worsens the appearance of cellulite.  The superficial reserve fat layer and the deep reserve fat layers in females are the prime targets that can be reduced by liposuction. 

In order to consider a particular therapy a cellulite “treatment” that therapy must address some component of the underlying physiological problems that leads to the formation of cellulite, namely, decreased microcirculation, fibrous septae damage, and the accumulation of fat in engorged fat cells.  Creams and lotions that do not penetrate the skin or deep tissue massage only act to temporarily improve the appearance of cellulite by causing localized tissue swelling that hides the dimples of cellulite.  Effective cellulite therapies include carboxytherapy, Thermage, and mesotherapy.

Have a Beautiful Day!

Dr. Lisa

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Posted in Carboxytherapy, Cellulite, Thermage | Tagged | Comments closed

What causes dark under-eye circles?

Mommy says, "Guinness is good for dark undereye circles!"

Mommy says, "Guinness is good for dark undereye circles!"

 

 

 

Dark undereye circles are relatively common and are caused typically by one of three anatomical defects, either alone or in combination.  The first possibility is that there is actual deposition of pigment into the skin of the lower eyelid.  This pigment deposition is commonly due to post-traumatic hyperpigmentation, where the skin of the lower eyelids has been perpetually irritated, usually from chronic tearing due to allergies or dry eye.  Skin pigmentation is the easiest cause of dark undereye circles to treat because it responds well to a combination of carboxytherapy and home bleaching regimens.  I do not use hydroquinones, the  over-the counter bleaching agent, on delicate eyelid skin because in some individuals this can worsen the dark circles.  Instead, I prescribe a combination of kojic acid and arbutin to help reduce the hyperpigmentation.  This gives my patients something safe and gentle that they can use at home while the carboxytherapy sessions are performed in my office. 

The second cause of dark undereye circles is vascular pooling.  The capillary network of the lower eyelids is vast, but it can become congested for a variety of reasons.  Normally, the tears drain from the eyelids into the nose, but if there is some obstruction of this anatomy due to chronic nasal congestion from seasonal allergies or a nasal fracture, the drainage apparatus becomes stagnant and the bloodflow to the lower eyelids becomes sluggish, giving rise to the boggy blue tinge known casually as “allergic shiners.”  The lack of appropriate oxygenation to the lower eyelid skin allows the deoxyhemoglobin’s bluish cast to show through the thin skin of the eyelids.  Carboxytherapy works to improve the capillary network of the lower eyelids, as well as to increase the dermal collagen layer in the lower eyelid skin.  By injecting a small amount of carbon dioxide gas into the affected areas, bloodflow is increased and improved capillary networks are formed for longer lasting circulatory benefit.  The bluish cast of deoxyhemoglobin is replaced with the healthy pink tone of well perfused tissues.  Once a series of four to six sessions is completed, the skin has a more luminous appearance that lasts approximately six months.

The third major cause of dark undereye circles is a depression beneath the lower eyelids called a “tear trough deformity.”  Tear trough deformity is a commonly inherited trait in the African American and Indian communities, but it can also develop in Caucasians over time due to the normal loss of bony architecture in the inferior orbital rim, which is the top of the cheekbone area.  In the event that a tear trough deformity exists, a temporary filling agent such as Restylane or Juvederm can be placed in the valley to plump up the depression, thus improving the appearance of the dark circles.  The treatment is not painful, and it is a one-time procedure performed after a small amount of numbing cream has been applied to the skin.  Since my specialty is oculoplastic surgery, I perform this procedure in my office at least twice a day with very gratifying results that last approximately eight months to one year. 

As I mentioned earlier, dark undereye circles can be caused by hyperpigmentation of the lower eyelid skin, vascular pooling, and/or tear trough deformity.  Usually, dark undereye circles are caused by some component of all three of these individual factors at once.  With the appropriate application of at home topical bleaching agents, carboxytherapy, and hyaluronic acid fillers, great strides can be made toward improving the appearance of this common problem of the periorbital region.

Have a Beautiful Day!

Dr. Lisa

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Want Younger Skin? Do the Monster Mash!

Want flawless skin?  Do like the vampires do, and only come out at dusk!

Want flawless skin? Do like the vampires do, and only come out at dusk!

Although relatively rare in Manhattan, I do occasionally have the pleasure to meet individuals who come to my office that have never had a cosmetic procedure of any type performed on their skin.  Imagine my delight to have been chosen as the beneficiary of their trust!  Generally, the first glimpse into the field of physician-based cosmetic medicine comes from people, both male and female, who are looking for ways to improve their skin texture and to reverse the signs of aging from past sun exposure.  Luckily, the majority of Americans have paid attention to the warnings from physicians regarding the risks of sun exposure and more and more people who come to my office are using a sunscreen daily, even if only to walk around the city streets.  The skin is the largest organ of the human body, and it is responsible for protection against disease, prevention of fluid losses, and Vitamin D metabolism.  The uppermost surface of the skin is called the epidermis,  where we get the freckles and burning associated with sun exposure.  Directly beneath the epidermal layer is the dermal layer, where the structural proteins collagen and elastin reside.  Collagen gives our skin its strength, and elastin gives the skin its flexibility.  Every year past the age of thirty years old, our skin makes 1% less collagen per year, and the enzyme that destroys collagen, called collagenase, goes up.  So, collagen production goes down, destruction goes up, and once we women hit menopause and the levels of estrogen decline the skin gets thinner still [how unfair]!  Therefore, my main goals for obtaining skin rejuvenation are to build more collagen in the skin and to prevent the breakdown of existing collagen. Cumulative exposure to sun remains the largest factor in aging skin and is responsible for most of the unwanted aesthetic effects.  Photoaged skin is characterized by wrinkles, skin laxity, brown spots, broken capillaries, increased pore size, and a leathery appearance.  Dermal damage induced by ultraviolet radiation is principally manifested as the disorganization of collagen fibrils and the accumulation of elastin containing scars (solar elastoses).  The associated fiber breakdown is responsible for the wrinkle formation associated with sun-damaged skin.  The accumulation of matrix metalloproteinases in response to sun exposure are responsible for the specific degradation of collagen and elastin and are believed to initiate the molecular pathway underlying the changes seen in photodamaged skin.    Prevention of breaking down collagen is simple…wear sunscreen. The higher the SPF, the better.  There is a difference between sunscreen and sunblock.  I prefer to use products that contain Zinc Oxide and/or Titanium Dioxide because these agents are a total sunblock.  Personally, I like the SkinCeuticals line because it is rapidly absorbed and non-greasy.  Sunblock needs to be applied liberally every thirty minutes while in situations of strong sun exposure.  The topical application of anti-oxidants such as Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Idebenone have also been shown to boost the protection of the skin by scavenging free radicals responsible for the DNA damage caused by UV radiation.  Skinceuticals makes a product called C+E Ferrulic that is a liquid antioxidant that can be patted onto the face prior to the application of sunscreen.  Prevage MD is a moisturizing product introduced by Alleran in conjunction with Elizabeth Arden, and is available through a physician’s office.  Prevage MD contains 1% Idebenone which is an exceptional antioxidant.  I generally use the Skinceuticals C+E Ferrulic and sunscreen during the daytime, and then I use the Prevage MD at bedtime while the skin undergoes it’s repair processes.

Now that we have protected our skin from losing any further collagen, we can turn our attention towards jump-starting our skin to make more collagen.  As I said earlier, once we get past the age of 30 years our skin doesn’t make as much collagen because our fibroblast cells have gotten lazy.  The easiest thing that anyone can do to help his or her skin to build more collagen is to make sure that there are plenty of building blocks for collagen formation floating around in the bloodstream.  By “building blocks” I mean vitamins, the most important of which is Vitamin C.  In order to build collagen, you need vitamin C.  Vitamin C is to collagen as bricks are to a house.  You can build a much bigger house if you have a lot of bricks.  Likewise, you can make more collagen if you have more vitamin C floating around in your system.  I generally advise people to take 1000 mg of Vitamin C three times a day.  I take 2000 mg at breakfast, and another 1000 mg at lunch.  Anything more than this should be regulated by a physician since Vitamin C can cause stomach upset in suceptible individuals.  Omega-3 essential fatty acids found in cold water fish such as salmon or supplement form are also a wonderful way to get a natural glow to the skin.  The old adage goes that if you want your skin to glow for when you are on television, you should eat salmon three times a day for one week prior to your television appearance.    I take 600 mg of a combined formula with EPA (eicosapentaenoci acid) and DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) two times a day, and I love salmon!  Other nutrients that are beneficial to the skin include silica, CoQ10, Vitamin E, and resveretrol.  I will be coming out with my own formulation of vitamins geared for the skin that contains the purest, most potent forms of these agents, as well as some other goodies, so stay tuned!

Aside from nutritional supplementation, the second biggest question that I get asked in my practice is what skin products that I recommend.  Well, I have essentially two types of patients, those who use LaMer or la Prarie, and those who use Dove soap and Almay moisturizer.  There really is no difference in my opinion on what over- the- counter products that you use, and here is why.  Remember, our main goal is to build collagen in the skin.  The collagen resides in the dermal layer, which is directly below the epidermal layer.  The outermost layer of the epidermis is called the stratum corneum, also known as the “horny layer” because its cells are toughened like an animal’s horn.  In order for a skin product to influence collagen formation it must penetrate the stratum corneum layer.  If the product penetrates the stratum corneum layer, then it is considered a drug and is regulated by the FDA and is available only through a physician’s prescription.  Therefore, if a product is available over-the-counter, it does not penetrate the stratum corneum and it will not have any effect on collagen formation.  So, whether you buy an expensive cream at a fancy department store, or an inexpensive cream at the local drugstore, it doesn’t matter a hill of beans which you use, as long as your skin likes it.  I remember walking through one of the “tonier” department stores on Fifth Avenue here in the city and the salesperson honed in on me like a beacon, “try this!” she exclaimed, “it’s better than Botox!”  “Really?!”  I squealed, “okay, put a little on one side of my crow’s feet, and l’ll go to the ladies room and see if there is any difference.”  “Oh, I promise you, it will be completely improved!” she cackled as she gingerly dabbed copious amounts of this miracle product onto my skin.  Laughingly, I strolled into the ladies room, and of course saw no improvement whatsoever. When she accosted me on my way out of the cosmetics department, I had to restrain my urge to devilishly pass her my business card and say, “try this, this IS Botox!”  But, I like shopping there, so I just smiled and thanked her. 

That being said, there are some products that you can use that do penetrate the stratum corneum and that can help to build collagen (Halleluah)!  As far as prescription products are concerned, the hands down winner and gold standard is Retin A.  The woman that I saw in my office who had the best skin was 50 years old and her skin was thick, plump, and without a single wrinkle.  She grew up in Spain, so I was nosy and asked her what her secret was, to which she responded “Retin A.”  I asked her how old she was when she started using Retin A and she told me “twenty-two.”  Oh well, like retirement, it’s never too late to start doing something for your skin involving Retin A.  I began using it when I was 24 years old for anti-acne purposes, but lower doses are used for anti-aging purposes.  Retin A is a form of Vitamin A (tretinoin) that binds to and activates intracellular retinoid receptors.  Once activated these receptors regulate the expression of genes that control the process of cellular differentiation and proliferation of skin cells.  Retin A goes by many names and is available through prescription only as Retin-A Micro, Renova, Panretin, Panrexin, etc.  Retin A should not be used by women who are pregnant or trying to become pregnant or who are breast feeding, primarily because the risks to the baby are not known in human trials.  Retin A is something that the skin needs to get acclimated to, and therefore it is always best to start with the lowest dose and build up the skin tolerance to every evening application.  Retin A can also increase the skin’s photosensitivity, so it is not a good idea to start using this product the week before your vacation to Maui!  Personally, there is a product that I like that is made by Avene that uses retinaldehyde, the precursor to Retin A.  It is gentle enough for me to use every day without the inherent redness and skin flaking that come with the initial use of Retin A.  The retinaldehyde acts in a time-release manner, continually forming Retin A on the skin.  I generally start my patients with this product, then ramp them up to prescription strength Retin A after they have become accustomed to the milder retinaldehyde. 

Somewhere in-between the over-the-counter skincare products and prescription products lies the field of cosmeceuticals.  A cosmeceutical is a term for a product that combines features of both a cosmetic and a pharmaceutical.  These cosmeceuticals are not proven to affect the structure and function of the human body, and are therefore not regulated by the FDA as a “drug” per se.  However, there is usually some underlying evidence that these products can penetrate the stratum corneum layer of the skin to deliver a myriad of nutrients to the skin.  Usually, cosmeceuticals are available for distribution through a physician’s office.  Two of the cosmeceutical lines that I carry include Skinceuticals and Avene products.  I am also in the process of developing my own cosmeceutical line that uses custom designed liposomes to deliver essential proteins and peptides to the skin, so stay tuned for these!    Between my vitamin line and skincare line that I am working feverishly to bring to you all, several of my patients whom I’ve known for years keep telling me that my skin looks terrific and are demanding to know what I am doing.  Well, now you all know, and soon you can all have it too!!

So, that’s how to keep your skin beautiful from the inside out from the comfort of your own home.  Next  time I’ll tell you about some office-treatments that I perform to further boost your collagen production and to correct the effects of sun exposure. 

 

Have a Beautiful Day!!

-Dr. Lisa

 

 

 

 

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Happy New Year and Welcome to my New Blog!

If you look closely, you can see "Blogging for Dummies" on the table!

If you look closely, you can see "Blogging for Dummies" on the table!

 

Hello all of my lovely readers!  Welcome to my new blog!   Many of you are currently registered to receive the newsletter from Precision Aesthetics.  However, the world of medicine and cosmetics changes so rapidly that it made more sense for me to submerge for a few months and learn how to build this blog to bring you the latest news just as soon as I hear about it!  You will be able to sign up via email address to subscribe to the blog very soon.  I also hope to get an RSS feed up and running so that you can keep me alongside all of your other favorite blogs.   I also plan to give you photos (so you can see all of my worldly excursions that you hear about in my office), as well as the occasional Vlog from my YouTube channel.  Yep, we are moving ahead with technology here!  So, I hope that you guys enjoy the ride!

Have a Beautiful Day!

Dr. Lisa

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